Method of trousers-cutting.



P. L. SCOTT.

METHOD oF TROUSERS CUTTING.

APPLICATION FILED MAR. 6, 1912- THE NORRISFETERS CO.. PHaTo-LITIIJWASHING TON. D. 1.'.

FARB. Ll SCOTT, 'OF TOLEDO, OHIO.

METHOD OF TROUSERS-CUTTING.

Specification of Letters Patent.

. Application led March 6, 1912. Serial No. 682,056.

To all whom` t may concern Be it known that I, FARB L. ScoT'r, a citi-Zen of the United States, residing at Toledo,

Lucas county, Ohio, have invented Methods of Trousers-Cutting, of whichthe following is a specification.

This invention relates to the lcutting of trousers, havingv a specialutility when adopted in connection with single and double thighmeasures. Tn carrying out this cutting, sets of accurate graded scalesmay be adopted and incorporated in a rule, thereby eliminatingcomputations, guess work and more or less rcrude approximations.

Referring to the drawings: Figure l is a draft of a forepart of atrousers leg in ac cordance with the invention herein; 2 is a d raft ofa backpart of a trousers leg; F ig. 3 is a view of one side of a ruleshowing certain sets of scales having particular utility the cutting ofvtrousers; Fig. 4L is a view of the opposite side of the rule of Fig. 3,showing additional sets of scales having further utility in trouserscutting; and Fig. 5 is a fragmentary outline of a human form toillustrate procuring kof trousers dimensions. y

e The individual removes coat and vest and anything in trousers pocketswhich might interfere with obtaining proper measurements. The individualthen takes his position on a slightly raised block, assumes a normalattitude, with feet neither close together nor spread apart. With thewaist band of the trousers above the hip bones, the individual lwearingthe old trousers may be measured properly for new trousers..

The outline in Fig. 5 is indicated nude in order that the location ofthe pointsr may be more clear. To procure the dimension Vil- B of Fig. lfor the outseam of the trousers, measurement is taken from the waistline W, Fig. 5, just above the hip bones, to the floor 'at a pointdirectly in front of the heel of the individual and at the outside ofthe foot. In order that the garment may properlyclear the floor, adeduction of fin. is made from this measurement, leaving the net outseamlength. y

To procurethe inseam dimensioinnieasurement is taken from the crotch ofthe individual to the floor, inside of the foot and forward of the heel,with in. deduction as for the outseam. This dimension is laid out on thedraft to determine the point `T from the point B.

For front rise of the trousers, the square'U is' placedclose up in thecrotch of the individual with the upstanding arm of the squareperpendicular to the floor, and the measurement at point Kinay beelected as desired. y u

The single thigh measurement is taken, say usually on the left sideabout the v'leg horizontallyandy close upto the crotch; The l doublethigh measurement is taken in the same plane, but about both legs, withsimilar tension on themeasuring tape as used in sin gle thighmeasurement;v In a parallel plane and with similar tape tension, theseat meas-.i

ure is taken-around the largest vpart ofthe buttock, as at line S,.Fig.5. With the waisty measurement taken immediately above lthe rat-@needocaso, i914.

eol

` distance to the waistband on this arm is taken. Bottom measurement atpoint B andr knee hip bones, quite snuglydif y desired for belted`trousers, the measurements. are vcomplete.

In proceeding with ,the.draft, main construction linef-fWjmay be laidofi', Fig.:

TW. `To eliminate computation and inciden-` tal liability to error,afrule, Fig. 3 isk provided, having the scale 1/6 S thereon, permittingdirect reading by placing the S edge of the rule along. the lineB-'Wwith the T edge thereof to the right. This position ofl the rule,with the line S-'T of the rule at the point T, makes possible thelocation of the point S between T and W at once. The point W isdeterminedfby laying voff the front rise fromthe point T toward W, oraway from B. Except as to thepoint S, all of the above dimensions laidout on the draft are to full scale. These points determine all of theheight dimensions, andy each may have a line passed therethrough atlrightangles to the lmain .draft construction f line ioxs To facilitatethe laying out of thetrouser widths onv thebasis of they dimensionsprocured from thefindividual, the rule of Figs. n

and i is advantageously used. Placing `the side of the rule shown inFig. -l up, with the medial rule line B-VV alined with the constructionline B-lV of the draft and the W point of the medial rule line at thepoint l of the draft, all is in readiness for marking the points l and 2of the waist by using the direct reading for waist as taken from theindividual. These iV-1V scales of the rule are one-eighth actual waistmeasures taken by the tape, and accordingly the point W of the draft ismidway between the points l and 2. As there are two foreparts and twobackparts to make a complete trouser waist, the yhalf of one of thesefour elements makes one eighth of the waist between W and the point l orlV and the point 2. Turning the rule over from its position at the pointW on the draft, and moving down to the point S, the side of the rule of3 is shown, and the scales S-S are in Position for direct marking of thepoints 3 and il. The lower S scale of F ig. 3 is the one whichdetermines the point 4 and its graduations Ifrom the medial line T-S ofthe rule are on the basis of ive-siizteenths actual dimension, lessthree-sixteenths of an inch'. The upper S scale of F ig. 3 is the oneiif'hi'ch determines the point 3 and its graduations from the medialline T-S of the rule are'on the basis of three-siXteenths actualdimension, plus fire-sixteenths of an inch. lll/ithout turning the ruleover, place the point'TV of the rule over the point T on the draft withthe line T-S of the rule alined with the draft construction line T-S,the point 6`may be laid off directly as the double `thigh dimensiontaken from the individual by 'the scale DT, while the point 5 is at thesame time located on basis of the single thigh dimension and the use ofthe scale ST ofthe rule. The scale DT is live thirtys econdsv actualplus three siXteenths of an inch. The scale ST is five sixteenths actualminus three fourths of an inch. lith the arrows on the rule directedtoward the left, as 'in all of these trouser draft width meas urementdeterminations, the rule is turned over from the position at which thesingl-e and ldouble thigh markings have been made, so that the point lVof the rule falls on the poin't'lVof the draft and the line B-VV of therule alines with the line B-VV of the draft. The actual knee measurementelected 'maybe doubled, and the readings on the W scales then directlyapplied, z'. e., 28 for a fourteen inch knee, etc., thus locating` theknee points 7 and S. The rule is then moved to have point B of the ruleover the point B ofthe draft, and with the line B-VV of the rule aliningwith the line B-VV of the draft, and "the bottom width points 9, l0, aremarked by reading` ofi directly on the inner Bs'cale's. These inner Bscales are nine fortieths actual 'plus one sixteenth of an inch.

` Thesca-le Abeyond one of the W scales is locates the point l5.

actual and may be ininches. `By using this A scale in. may be addedbeyond the point 5 to determine the point l1, allowing for dress, thegarment element for the left side being made this much larger than thesimilar fore part yelement for the right side. For this saine condition,at point 3 three eighths of an inch is taken each way, and at point l,one fourth inch each way, the respective curves fared through thesepoints showing on Fig. l, indicate the outlines for the two elements asin practice disclosed on a common draft. The draft outlines are extendedto the knee point 7 and thence to the bottom point 9. The point ll isdisposed slightly below the line through T so that the seam lines 5, 7and ll, 7 are equal. The hollowing out above E isfor foot clearance.

The difference between outseam and inseam dimensions determines thelength of the curve fared fromfpoint 6, through the points #il and 2 tothe point l2. The goint l2 is connected through the point W to the pointl to complete the draft, the side seam line having been before extendedup from the point 10, through the point S to the curve from the doublethigh point 6.

Tn the backpart draft or F ig. ./1, the outer B scales ofthe rule asshown in F ig. i, are L used to determine the back part bottom widths ina similar manner to the front widths 9, lO. These back part bottomwidths are accordingly marked as points 13,

lil.4 These outer B scales are three 'tenths right from the point 3. Fornormal back waist suppression., the radiating line in the middle, marked7 5, to indicate 7 50 mav be used and the rule is so shifted that this`line 75 from tie point 3 is a-lined with the line 3, fi on the draftvthrough the draft point S. The intersection of the S edge of the rulewith the waist line through W The angle for the seat seam for the backpart is thus fixed. The length for this line is determined by using therule scale 1,/6 S, with the scale shifted along to have the point S cfthe rule center fall on'the point l5 of the draft. The direct readingfor the seat measurement taken indicates the point to be marked. Thismarking 16 fixes the top of this back seam, when ordinary trousers areto be made. However, if the draft is for hip trousers, or trousers'tobeworn witha belt, instead of placing the point S of the rule on thepointl of the draft, the point H of the rule is placed on the point ofthe draft. The l/G S scale is one sixteenth actual plus seven eighths ofan inch When read from the point S of the rule, While it is onesixteenth actual plus one fourth inch When e read from the point H ofthe rule.

single thigh measurement.

Location of draft points is above discussed particularly as to the useof the rule scales and their peculiar ready adaptation for accuratelocation. The ranges of the scales are suiiicient'to meet the conditionsusually found in practice.

In making garments, good practice is to have the individual present anormal appearance. Accordingly it is not proper to emphasize thepeculiarities of the individual by too close adherence to dimensionsdeparting from normal. The single and double thigh measurements as takenand applied to the draft, contribute to insure proper fitting garments,especially when taken in connection with the seat measurements. As

an automatic check, it is to be noted'the DT i scale and the S scale ofthe vrule are adjacent, the normal dimension in one scale approximatingthe line of the corresponding dimension in the other. That is, anindividual having a 34 in. seat measure, Vshould have 31g; in. as normaldouble thigh measure.

The use of the single and double thigh measurements automatically fixthel location of the legs of the individual, Whether close or far apart,and adapt the garment accordingly, also taking into account leg size asWell as leg position. With the legs of the individual set far apart onthe body, the double thigh measurement Would be large relatively to thenormal seat measurement.

With the individuals legs close together, the

seat measurement is relatively small as to the These single thigh,double thigh and seat measurements are the basis for observation as toback Waist suppression. With legs spaced apart, there is less angle tothe back part, owing `to the flatter back, and line is used; While vwithlegs close on the body, the seat is more prominent and great incline isneeded, thev 7 0 line for()O being used in making the draft.

lVhat is claimed and it is desired to secure by Letters Patent is:

l. The improvement in method of measuring for trousers and plotting thedraft for the patterns thereof comprisingtaking the seat circumferenceat the seat and single and double thigh circumferences at the crotch ofthe person for Whom the trousers are being drafted, applying said seatdimension di-f rectly to the draft at the seat,`and applyingindependently of the seat measure, the single thigh and double thighmeasures directly Ato the draft at the crotch and respectively inopposite directions from a ,commonl point and independently of theseatvmeasure.

2. The method of plotting trouser drafts Which comprises providing adraft construction line, providing a bottom line near one end of thedraft line andv bisected by saiddraftline, providing a Waist line at theother 'end of the ydraft line and bisected by the draft line, laying oifthe crotch point on said draft line, and laying olf respectively inopposite directions from said crotch pointfsingle and double thighdimensions. f

8. rThe method oit/determining back Waist suppression in cuttingytrouser drafts emlo in@ longitudinal and ytransverse conp b D structionlines, embodyingthe determination of the back Waist suppression` angleas to va construction line, and the marking of the direction ofthe backWaist suppression from said angle upon the draft. I

il.` The method of cutting trousers includ ing'l the determinationl ofleg position as to the trunk double thigh measurement as thecircumstance of the individual yat they crotch below and independentofthe seat measurement as the circumference of theindividual at the seatand v-between the Waist and crotch, and applyingl said vdimensions asindependent Widths tothe pattern draft v` at lcorrespondingly spacedpoints.

5. Thev method of cutting trousers includi'ngk the determination of' thetype ofy FARB L. SCOTT.

vWitnesses: JAMES W. HARBAUGH, JAS. S. MARTIN.

Copies of this patent *may be obtained for five cents each, byaddressing the f Commissioner of Patents, Washington, D. C.

It is hereby certified that in Letters Patent No. 1,114,190, grantedOctober 20,

1914, upon the application of Farr L. Scott, of Toledo, Ohio, for animprovement in Methods of Trousers-Cutting, an error appears in theprinted specification requiring correction as follows: Page 3, line 87,for the Word circumstance read circumference; and that the said LettersPatent should be read with this correction therein that the same mayconform to the record of the case in the Patent Otlice.

Signed and sealed this 10th day of November, A. D., 1914.

R, F. WHITEHEAD,

[SEAL] Acting Commissioner of Paziens.

